Frequently Asked Questions
Concrete in and of itself, is virtually watertight. But once you build a wall, you are likely to get shrinkage cracks which may allow water to penetrate the wall. As with all other parts of your house, basement walls are not necessarily waterproof. It is with the interrelation of other systems and the foundation system that keeps the basement dry. Some basements have a waterproofing system that was installed on the underground portions of your foundation. This will prevent the entrance of water from the surrounding soil. However, whether your foundation was waterproofed or not should not dictate whether it leaks. Repairs of basement leaks depend on quite a few variables and conditions. Before making extensive or expensive structural repairs to correct wet wall conditions you need to check other systems on the house that your foundation depends on to work correctly. The first is your drainage system. It is setup in two distinct systems. One is the system that handles surface water and the second is the system that handles the subsurface water. First, start with the surface water system. In many instances repairing, adjusting gutters and downspouts to help carry the water away from the foundation walls is all that is needed. A very important surface water system that is critical to the complete drainage system is the correct landscaping. The finish grade should be 6” below the top of the foundation wall. There should be 6” of pitch in the first ten feet away from the foundation. If you cannot attain this, a French drain or other consideration may be needed. The grade and landscaping must be cared for continuously to assure the health of the drainage system. Almost all foundation leaks are from poor landscaping. The subsurface water system consists of a drain tile system which will get the water to the sump pump. The sump pump must be in working order and should be checked periodically. Water does not have to run into the sump pump for the system to be working. There are numerous other outlets under the footings or floors for the water to go. Therefore, if you feel that this system may be compromised in some way, call the builder to have an expert look into it. If all these systems are working and there is still a leak, if it is a poured concrete foundation the source of the leak can be injected with a urethane or epoxy from the inside of the foundation.
Absolutely. Concrete walls are dryer and stronger, adding lower-level living space. All these things increase the value at resale.Yes. We typically pour all winter long.
It is recommended that the builder use a waterproofing system, especially in areas of poor drainage or unusually wet conditions. Base foundation packages include damp proofing and a very competitive upgrade price for waterproofing with a 10 year limited warranty.
Yes.
Yes. As concrete cures the mixing water used in concrete evaporates from the concrete as causes the concrete to shrink. This may result in some cracks in the foundation. These cracks are not a structural concern and will not cause a water leak if the foundation is waterproofed. Cracks in concrete walls and slabs are a common occurrence. They appear in floors, driveways, walks, structural beams and walls. Cracking cannot be prevented but it can be significantly reduced or controlled when the causes are taken into account and preventative steps are taken. Most cracks should not be a cause for alarm.
Payment is due 15 days after completion of work. Interest of 2% per month will be charged for all unpaid invoices after 15 days. The builder will pay all collection expenses including court cost and legal fees, if necessary.
Absolutely. This can be accomplished in two ways. First, we can incorporate a brick or stone ledge in the wall. This will allow the brick or stone to follow just below the grade, giving the appearance of brick or stone to the footing. Second, your mason can brick or stack stone directly off the footing. Depending on the depth of the footing, a brick or stone ledge in the CIP wall may save you money and time.
In summer, we recommend waiting at least 7 calendar days. In winter, at least 18 calendar days. Also, it is important that no heavy machinery be operated close to the top of any cast-in-place (CIP) wall. Doing so may create cracks or other problems which could lead to wall failure.